The escalating use of unregulated “organic” and harsh cosmetic products across West Africa has sparked a surge in pigmentary disorders, steroid-induced skin damage, and even skin malignancies, according to Dr. Kofi Ansah Brifo, a Resident Dermatologist at Osu Rabito Clinic in Accra. Dr. Brifo, who treats over 1,000 patients monthly, highlights the deceptive marketing of these products as “safe” and “natural,” leading to a silent epidemic of skin damage and disfigurement. He stresses the urgent need for regulatory oversight and emphasizes the critical role of broad-spectrum sunscreen in preventing long-term complications.
Dr. Brifo’s clinical experience reveals a disturbing pattern of skin complications linked to these unregulated products. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), exogenous ochronosis (often associated with creams containing “Nansoben”), dark knuckles, and uneven complexions from prolonged use of low-grade hydroquinone or “herbal toning” lotions are among the most frequent issues. More severe complications include telangiectasias (prominent green veins), thinning skin due to corticosteroid misuse, stretch marks from compromised skin barriers, and pigmented scars worsened by UV exposure. Alarmingly, Dr. Brifo has documented a case of squamous cell carcinoma directly linked to prolonged use of harsh bleaching formulations, underscoring the severity of this public health concern.
Central to Dr. Brifo’s treatment approach is the indispensable role of broad-spectrum sunscreen. He reports significant improvement in 97.8% of 400 patients treated for pigmentary disorders between 2022 and 2024 at Rabito Clinic when sunscreen was incorporated into their regimen. This regimen includes discontinuing the harmful product, using topical corticosteroids for a limited time under strict medical supervision, applying a Vitamin C serum to address pigmentation, and incorporating a retinoid at night for skin cell turnover. He emphasizes that without consistent sunscreen use, even the most effective treatment protocols will fail, as the skin remains vulnerable to further damage from UV exposure.
The proliferation of unregulated cosmetic products in Africa, including Ghana, is a significant contributing factor to this skin health crisis. Dr. Brifo points to the easy availability of products containing unlisted corticosteroids, high levels of mercury and hydroquinone, and falsely labeled “organic” products containing synthetic irritants. The lack of pharmacovigilance, particularly with products sold by street vendors and online shops, allows these harmful ingredients to reach consumers unchecked, creating a paradox where the pursuit of clearer skin leads to unintended and often severe damage.
To combat this growing epidemic, Dr. Brifo advocates for a multi-pronged approach involving both policy enforcement and public education. He urges regulatory bodies like the Food and Drugs Authority to enforce stricter regulations, including mandatory transparent labeling, restrictions on imports of unverified products, and crackdowns on false advertising and illegal street sales. Furthermore, he calls on dermatological societies to launch public awareness campaigns promoting safe skincare practices in collaboration with community pharmacies and salons. He also encourages media outlets and influencers to leverage their platforms to disseminate accurate information about safe skincare, shifting the focus from potentially harmful trends to evidence-based practices.
Dr. Brifo’s message underscores the urgent need for a paradigm shift in how skincare products are regulated and marketed. He emphasizes that while individuals have the freedom to choose their skincare products, governments and healthcare professionals have a responsibility to ensure those choices are informed and safe. The unchecked proliferation of harsh and unregulated “organic” skincare products constitutes a clinical crisis demanding immediate and comprehensive action. He advocates for a future where skin health is prioritized, beauty is pursued safely, and policies are proactive in protecting consumers from harmful products. The central message remains: sunscreen is not optional but a necessity in any effective skincare regimen, particularly for those recovering from the damaging effects of unregulated cosmetics.
